Mongolia or Bust

Just wrote a long blog and argh... disappeared! Sorry then, here's the quick version without the fine details.

Arrived in Irkutsk at 6am four days ago and hung out at the train station until the sun came up. Found our way to Arena hotel which was a complete crapshoot with little heat and zero hospitality. Still, a place to rest which is always welcome.

Next day took the 5 and a half hour bus from Irkutsk to Olkhon Island on Lake Baikal. As we waited for the bus to leave, we met Kim, a fellow traveller from South Korea who has taught himself Russian, and Nadiesda, a woman from the island who offered us room and board at her place for 300 roubles (about $12) per night. No problem, say we, and off we go on bus, on ferry, back on bus to Khuzhir, population 1,000. It's a gorgeous place - small, surrounded by incredibly crystal clear Lake Baikal, and resting between Siberian steppe and taiga forest. Our room was simple but amazingly located with a breathtaking view of it all.

On our second day we hooked up with some other tourists to take a day trip out to the famous northern tip of the island, known for its scenery and the spiritual significance it holds for the Buryat people. As we're still not able to post pictures, I would heartily recommend you do a google image search on Olkhon Island and Khuzhir... you will see what I mean by amazing.

I think Chris and I both enjoyed staying in the small town - no paved roads, no street lights, few cars, cows roaming in the middle of the roads. Old wooden buildings and a nightly banya (Russian sauna) and it was the place made for us. We both liked the homestay very much, the homecooked meals, and a chance to relax and enjoy a place that somehow feels very old and very strong.

This was the first time we've met other tourists since we left Moscow and it was interesting to find similarities and differences in our journeys, experiences, and impressions. I find that because Chris and I share much of the same politics and values, we tend to get similar things out of our trip. Other people do it differently and it's neat to note the differences.

So now we're off again by train. I was sorry to learn there are no third class tickets to Ulan Bataar. I've very much enjoyed our platskart rides, meeting other people in an easygoing atmosphere of exchange and sharing. We're back up to second class now and we'll see what that brings.

Much love, as always, to everyone!
Miia